A Trip to Tangier – What to see and do

This coastal city is on the up and up thanks to its charming mix of colourful history, old school charm and a buzzing creative scene. Plus you get rolling Atlantic coast. Just combine a trip to Marrakech with a few days in Tangier and you’ve got a perfect week in Morocco.

 

WHAT TO KNOW

Founded as a Phoenician colony, possibly as early as the 10th century BC, you’ll still find traces of this ancient civilization in the form of boulder-like graves dotted around the city. But this was just the first invasion of many. Tangier, a port city at a critical crossroads between Europe and Africa, was highly prized by competing forces and the Romans and Byzantines invaded before the Islamisation of North Africa. It was also later occupied by both Portugal and Spain and became a haven for pirates targeting the many ships sailing on the nearby Atlantic.

 

 

But perhaps Tangier is best known for its more modern history. In 1923, it became an infamous international zone where everyone from spies and diplomats to eccentric millionaires, writers and bohemians gathered. American heiress Barbra Hutton threw lavish parties in her huge villa, Paul Bowles moved to Tangier and stayed for 50 years. Tennesse Williams, Jean Genet and Aldoux Huxley all spent time in the city. The beauty of Tangier today is that it combines all this history with a progressive mentality as the city is regenerated for the future. 

 

WHERE TO SHOP

• New Tangier 

In her stunning showroom, Kenza Bennani channels her experience at Jimmy Choo and Louis Vuitton to create showstopping one off dresses, kaftans and separates. This is a jewel box of a shop.

 

• Las Chicas

You’ll find fun fashion, homeware and beauty products in this boutique just next to the Kasbah. It’s also got a cute cafe and is on the main route into the heart of town.  

 

• Tangier Records

The Tangier souk is an easy going kind of place. Go for a wander and keep an eye out for the hot pink exterior of Tangier Records. Pop in and pick up some vinyl.

 

• Rock Da Kasbah

A great place to pick up t-shirts and sweatshirts for adults and children. They come in a palette of primary colours and even Morocco’s king Mohammed VI has been known to wear one. 

 

• Gallery Kent/Gallery Tindouf

Gallery Kent is the place to go for contemporary art but if you’re after more classic art, as well a jewellery, carpets and furniture, then head to Tindouf – one of the icons of the Moroccan gallery scene. 

 

 

WHERE TO EAT & DRINK 

• Villa Josephine

Yves Saint Laurent’s picturesque former home has been transformed by Jasper Conran into a luxury hotel that you can also visit for cocktails on the terrace followed by dinner in the chic dining room. 

 

• El Morocco Club

This place is dripping with the ghosts of Tangier past. After dinner on the ground floor, head downstairs to the basement piano bar where the atmosphere is turned up to the max. It’s small, buzzy and always fun.  

 

• Chez Mounir

About 40 minutes drive from Tangier on the road to Asilah, Chez Mounir is a real slice of beach paradise. On a hill overlooking a sweep of Atlantic sand, his beach hut restaurant is perfect for a fish lunch.

 

• L’Ocean

Keep your eye out for glimpses of some of Tangier’s most glamorous homes as you drive up the ‘Old Mountain’ road to get to L’Ocean where you can have a great lunch with a view of the Atlantic.

 

• Cafe Hafa

Cafe Hafa opened in 1921 and is a Tangier institution. Everyone from the Beatles to the Rolling Stones have drunk a coffee on its pretty terraces overlooking the coast. It’s great for breakfast. 

 

WHAT TO SEE

• The city

With all its history, a guided tour of Tangier is a must. Wander through the Kasbah and into the souk. (The food market is a highlight.) Dotted around town, you’ll also find royal palaces, viewpoints and Roman remains as well as museums. 

 

• Cinema Rif/Grand Socco

The Grand Socco is the beating heart of Tangier and the Cinema Rif overlooks it. Opened in 1938, it houses one of the largest collections of Moroccan and North African films inside its art deco exterior. Drop into the cute cafe for a coffee.  

 

• Coastline 

Tangier sits on not one but two coastlines – the Atlantic and the Mediterranean – which means you’ll be spoiled for choice when it comes to hiking, riding and walking on the beach. The promenade in Tangier is perfect for a morning walk, or hire a car and find a beach. It will probably be miles long and you’ll have it to yourself.